Showing posts with label audi. Show all posts
Showing posts with label audi. Show all posts

Sunday, 30 August 2020

Easy 2.5" bixenon upgrade for DEPO/VALEO audi a4 b5 facelift headlights

If you like to upgrade your projector assembly in DEPO/VALEO headlights (should works for TYC also) for facelifted Audi A4 B5 for whatever reason here is a simple solution:

you need this 4TL-R 2.5" projector


https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32759121526.html

these are also available from other sources, but I did not test them and can not tell if they are same.
 

https://my.aliexpress.com/wishlist/shared.htm?groupId=100000023931021

and also here:

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/bi-xenon-4tl-r-P-M-4TLR?quantity=1


Next, you need the template for drilling which can be brought from my tindie store:

https://www.tindie.com/products/tomaskovacik/template-for-4tl-r-bixenon-audi-a4-b5-lights/

With this template also comes document with detailed instructions on how to modify the projector to fit. It requires 4holes to be drilled into projector and made few cuts into projector to clear inside of headlights.

Here are some sample pictures:

The adapter bolted to projector prior drilling new mounting holes.
Projector inside DEPO headlight.  
 
Finally inside.
 
Low beams
Low beams

High beams

 update:

I just use my adapter to insert projector into VALEO(OEM) projectors. Few pictures, from testing it on some broken valeo headlights:

holes are lining up, that is ok

inner parts must be addjust all way to the front glass

projector in the headlight

projector in the headlight

In document which is provided after buying adapter is more detailed process and also link to YT video how to insert the projector into headlight.

I sell on Tindie

Friday, 8 November 2013

How to enable CD changer input on audi chorus I

How to enable CD changer input on audi chorus I

I sell on Tindie
 From schematics, difrence between chorus and concert which has CD changer input,  is just few parts and enable CD-changer by coding as in here. Parts need to be soldered on main board to enable are this:

Audio input filter:
C1407 2.2uF/10V(THT, 2.54mm)
C1427 2.2uF/10V (THT, 2.54mm)
C1424 820pF (SMD 0805)
C1404 820pF (SMD 0805)
R1401 10kΩ (SMD 0805)
R1421 10kΩ (SMD 0805)
R1402 10kΩ (SMD 0805)
R1422 10kΩ (SMD 0805)


Location of all components on bottom side of PCB.
Power supply switch:
BSP452 (cheepest on ebay)
R2018 150Ω (SMD 0805)


Location of 150Ω resistor is on first picture.

Comunication lines Data-In, Data-out, clock
R5301 1kΩ (SMD 0805)
R5304 1kΩ (SMD 0805)
R5305 1kΩ (SMD 0805)
R5202  2,2kΩ (SMD 0805)
R5303  2,2kΩ (SMD 0805)
V5301 BC848B any BC848/850 is ok
 V5302 BZX84C5V6
V5303 BZX84C5V6
V5304 BZX84C5V6



Location of 3x1k and 2x2k2 is on first picture.

Price for this components is 0.68€ at gme.sk.

After this, you need CD changer emulator and simple circute, which emulate "mode" button press. For so small project is perfect attiny25/45/85 actualy 85 is cheapest one. For attiny support in arduino, follow this tutorial. Sketch for tiny:


Schematic  and pcb for this "mode button emulator":

schematics

PCB





Tuesday, 29 October 2013

audi a4 b5 woofer + fix







If subwoofer and rear speakers not working (avant version):
While radio is ON check if ther is 12V as red marks show. If so, check if there is a short like yellow marks show, if there is no short while 12V is in place, that means, relay is not working, change it or make permanent short between yellow solder joints.

Monday, 14 October 2013

Remote control audi radio

audi radio (concert in my case) remote control protocol spec:
5V LOGIC idle state is HIGH (5V)

start bit:
 9ms LOW
4.55ms HIGH

 logic 1:
~600us LOW ~1700us HIGH

logic 0:
~600us LOW ~600us HIGH

stop bit:
~600us LOW

I use arduino duemilanove as logic analyzer, 10kHz sampling. OLS in version 0.9.7 already has arduino as input option, so no need for copying config files to plugins directory, actualy it's not working with this files.

I have MFSW without telephone option, so I read codes just for radio:

UP:       0x41E8D02F
DOWN: 0x41E850AF
LEFT:   0x41E840BF
RIGHT: 0x41E8C03F
VOL+:  0x41E8807F
VOL-:    0x41E800FF

code is always 0x41 0xE8 X 0xFF-X

after this i made simple arduino code to test all combination 0x00-0xFF with LCD sheel.

Emulator code is on github.


Discovered codes:


0x00 Volume down
0x01 mem/cd1
0x02
0x03 mem/cd3
0x04
0x05 mem/cd5
0x06
0x07 search up
0x08
0x09 reg on/off
0x0A
0x0B tp
0x0C
0x0D
0x0E
0x0F
0x10
0x11 AM
0x12
0x13
0x14
0x15 AS-STORE
0x16
0x17 FM
0x18
0x19
0x1A
0x1B
0x1C
0x1D search down
0x1E
0x1F
0x20 AM->AM+AS->FM1->FM2->FM1+AS->FM2->AS/in CD mode “RD”
0x21
0x22 AM->AM+AS->FM1->FM2->FM1+AS->FM2->AS/in CD mode “RD”
0x23
0x24 AM->AM+AS->FM1->FM2->FM1+AS->FM2->AS/in CD mode “RD”
0x25
0x26 AM->AM+AS->FM1->FM2->FM1+AS->FM2->AS/in CD mode “RD”
0x27
0x28
0x29 TP
0x2A
0x2B search up
0x2C
0x2D
0x2E
0x2F
0x30
0x31
0x32
0x33
0x34
0x35
0x36
0x37
0x38
0x39
0x3A
0x3B
0x3C seek up
0x3D
0x3E
0x3F
0x40 LEFT FM1 6-5-4-3-2-1-FM2 6-5-4-3-2-1
0x41
0x42 LEFT FM1 6-5-4-3-2-1-FM2 6-5-4-3-2-1
0x43
0x44 LEFT FM1 6-5-4-3-2-1-FM2 6-5-4-3-2-1
0x45
0x46 LEFT FM1 6-5-4-3-2-1-FM2 6-5-4-3-2-1
0x47
0x48
0x49
0x4A
0x4B
0x4C
0x4D
0x4E
0x4F
0x50 Seek down/FR
0x51
0x52 Seek down/FR
0x53
0x54 Seek down/FR
0x55
0x56 Seek down/FR
0x57
0x58
0x59
0x5A
0x5B
0x5C
0x5D
0x5E
0x5F
0x60 Seek down/FR
0x61
0x62 seek down
0x63
0x64 seek down
0x65
0x66
0x67
0x68
0x69
0x6A
0x6B
0x6C
0x6D
0x6E
0x6F
0x70
0x71
0x72
0x73
0x74
0x75
0x76
0x77
0x78
0x79
0x7A
0x7B
0x7C
0x7D
0x7E
0x7F
0x80 Volume up
0x81 Volume up
0x82 Volume up
0x83 Volume up
0x84 Volume up
0x85 Volume up
0x86 Volume up
0x87
0x88
0x89 -2 Volume down bas/treble down/fade rear/bal left
0x8A
0x8B -4 Volume down bas/treble down/fade rear/bal left
0x8C
0x8D -6 Volume down bas/treble down/fade rear/bal left
0x8E
0x8F -8 Volume down/fade rear/bal left
0x90
0x91
0x92
0x93
0x94
0x95
0x96
0x97 TP
0x98
0x99
0x9A
0x9B SCAN
0x9C
0x9D
0x9E
0x9F
0xA0 MODE
0xA1
0xA2 MODE
0xA3
0xA4 MODE
0xA5
0xA6 MODE
0xA7
0xA8
0xA9
0xAA
0xAB
0xAC
0xAD
0xAE
0xAF
0xB0
0xB1
0xB2
0xB3
0xB4
0xB5
0xB6
0xB7
0xB8
0xB9
0xBA
0xBB
0xBC
0xBD
0xBE
0xBF
0xC0 RIGHT FM1 6-5-4-3-2-1-FM2 6-5-4-3-2-1
0xC1
0xC2 RIGHT FM1 6-5-4-3-2-1-FM2 6-5-4-3-2-1
0xC3
0xC4 RIGHT FM1 6-5-4-3-2-1-FM2 6-5-4-3-2-1
0xC5
0xC6 RIGHT FM1 6-5-4-3-2-1-FM2 6-5-4-3-2-1
0xC7
0xC8
0xC9
0xCA
0xCB
0xCC
0xCD
0xCE
0xCF
0xD0 Seek up/FF
0xD1
0xD2 Seek up/FF
0xD3
0xD4 Seek up/FF
0xD5
0xD6 Seek up/FF
0xD7
0xD8
0xD9
0xDA
0xDB
0xDC
0xDD
0xDE
0xDF
0xE0 seek up
0xE1
0xE2 seek up
0xE3
0xE4 seek up
0xE5
0xE6 seek up
0xE7
0xE8
0xE9
0xEA
0xEB
0xEC
0xED
0xEE
0xEF
0xF0
0xF1
0xF2
0xF3
0xF4
0xF5
0xF6
0xF7
0xF8
0xF9
0xFA
0xFB
0xFC
0xFD
0xFE
0xFF

Friday, 27 September 2013

Friday, 14 June 2013

rear wiper motor teardown "8L0 955 711 A"




7x Torx T10
Tryska sa len vytahuje, ziadny zavit
Tryska sa len vytahuje, ziadny zavit
Zadny plech isiel tazko, koli zaoxidovanej "trubke" ostrekovaca, ktoru neslo vytiahnut s osky stieraca.
Kryt elektroniky
Odchyleny zadny plech, skrutkovac narazeny medzi pastovu cast ostrekovanie a neskor aj plastoveho tela motora a ozubenie osky stieraca plus jemny natlak kladivka pomohol
psychycky natlak skrutkovacom a kladivkom

hrudzu s vazelinou som ocistil acetonom a potom odhrdzovacom az na cisty kov
odlomena trubka ostrokovaca
Ak sa ostrekocia tryska hybe spolu so stieracom, pravdepodobne mate problem zobrazeny na vyssie zobrazenom orazku., cast co je ostala v oske stieraca, je odlomena a oxidom prilepena.
Toto odlomenie samozrejme sposobuje tecenie cistiacej kvapaliny do samotneho ostrojenstva stieraca, ako vidno z fotiek ziadne vonakjsie poskodenie nieje viditelne a i tak je stierac skorodovany vo vnutri. Pokusal som sa vybrat zvysnu trubku s umyslom ju priletovat spat ale nepomohla ani niekolko hodinova kura v odhdzovaci ... riesenie je odvrtat ju, najprv treba ale zohnat novu. povodnu odpiit (napr.) 20mm od plastu, pomocou hubsej trubky pripojit uzsiu a cele to cinom zaletova, pripadne pouzit plastovu pevnejsiu hadicku (pripad 2 na obrazku) a pomocou stahovacej lepiacej bizirky to cele spojit. 

mosadzne trubky:
http://www.artol.sk/trubky-mosadzne/806-k-s-127.html

rozmery zmeram
hlavne ozubene koleso, z druhej strany ma mosadzny plech ktory urcuje "parkovaciu" poziciu, pomocou prerusenia kontaktu
spodne kontakty idu na motor: ZEM, signal parkovacej pozicie (voci ZEM), +12V

BUK445-60A N-chanel mosfet




Zapojenie konektora je :
1: konstantna ZEM
2: ZEM ak sa ma motor tocit
3: +12V ak sa ma motor tocit
4: konstantne +12V

Pocas testov som si vsimol, ze motor sa zapol uz pri zapojeni pinu 2 na ZEM ale "sekal", zastavoval sa vzdy ked koleso prislo na parkovaciu poziciu. Trhanie pocas stierania moze byt teda sposobene tymto neduhom, ze na pine 3 nieje +12V ako by malo byt (zla packa, zle kable?).
Jedinym prvkom v elektrickom zapojeni, ktory by mohol vykazovat nejake "opotrebenie" je kondenzator 22u/25V ale jeho odpojenie nemalo ziadny efekt na funkciu stieraca. Podozrieval som ho, ze bude pricinou "sekania", nepotvrdilo sa to.

Zapojenie konstantneho napajania naopak ma za nasledok konstantne tocenie sa motora, ale nema destruktivne nasledky na elektroniku.

obrazky zo skladania:

vsetko poriadne natrete vazelinou, aby nehrdzavelo :)




kontakt na kolecku, pouzivany na "parkovanie"

kontakty "parkovacieho snimaca"
vonkajsi priemer trubky 2.8mm plus minus....
vonkajsi priemer trysky je 2.45mm ... trubku volime 2.4mm .. kupil som radsej aj 2.5mm, uvidim
pravne osadeny plech klzneho dorazu osky motora

vidno zesa nebije s tesnenim
po osadeni som zistil, ze vycistenie "oxidacie" z priestoru osky sposobilo vytekanie kvapaliny do priestoru dveri kufra, takze pri rozbrati je potrebne opravit tycku ostrekovaca

na opravu treba mosadznu trubku s vnutornym priemerom 3.4mm (pouzil som MS 824030 4.0x0.30 )
vhodna trubka
povodnu trubku rozrezeme jemne pilkou na zelezo
zlozenie pred finalnym zletovanim
hlavna trubka pohanajuca stierac je na konci zuzena, treba skusit ci po zletoani bude dostatocne trcat povodna trubka ostrekovaca
prvy spoj
takto nie .... hrubsiu trubku odrezat priblizne v polke zostavajucej
druhy spoj


opravene
 

po vlozeni to "drhlo" vtaky 5, 5.5, 6 a 6.5 tomu pomohli...
takyto bordel je vo vnutri
Po zlozeni trubka trcala z hriadela stieraca, zmeral som kolko mm trci, nasledke som opat motorcek rozobral a odrezal s trubky ostrekovaca zapustenie trysky (stredna hruba cast) plus presah opravenej trubky minus pol milimetra aby sa tryska nedotykala hriadela ale aby bola zastrcena v trubke "na doraz"